Rodang La Trek, Eastern Bhutan

Day 1 - Depart UK.

Depart London on your overnight flight to Kathmandu.

Overnight: In flight

Day 2 - Arrive in Kathmandu.

On arrival in Kathmandu you will be met at the airport and transferred to your hotel.

Overnight: Hotel Shanker Or Similar, Kathmandu

Day 3 - Fly to Paro, 2,250m/7,380ft - 1 hour flight. Sightseeing in Paro.

You will be transferred to Kathmandu airport to take the Druk Air flight through to Bhutan. The flight is only 40-50 minutes but taking off from Kathmandu you very soon see the Himalaya spread out on the left hand side of the plane, and if the weather is clear you may see Everest. Before the plane starts its descent into the Paro valley, you may see the second highest peak in Bhutan, Chomolhari.

On arrival you will be met by your Bhutanese guide and transferred to the Olathang Hotel which sits up on the hillside above Paro valley. The Paro Valley has had a great strategic importance in the history of Bhutan and was in the past an important staging post on the trade routes with Tibet. Paro Dzong, situated on a rocky outcrop above the Paro Chu and with views down both sides of the valley was historically one of Bhutan's strongest and most strategic fortresses. Before the rebuilding of the Tashidodzong in Thimphu it was also the seat of Bhutan's National Assembly. Depending on your flight schedule there may well be time to do some initial sightseeing in the Paro Valley and to have a look round Paro town.

Overnight: Hotel Olathang Or Similar, Paro

Day 4 - Walk to Taktsang Monastery, 3,120 m/10,240ft. Sightseeing in Paro Valley.

In the morning you drive half an hour up the Paro Valley to where you start the walk to Taktsang, the most famous of all Bhutanese Temples. Taksang Monastery is commonly known as the 'Tiger's Nest' because it was said to be where the legendary Indian saint, Guru Padma Sambhava flew from Tibet on the back of a tiger to defeat five demons who were opposing the spread of Buddhism in Bhutan. Taktsang is perched some 600m/2,000ft up on a cliff overlooking the valley and although steep, the walk up is relatively straightforward, taking some 2-3 hours to ascend and a further hour or so to walk back down. You may have lunch at the café built at the main viewing point for Taktsang, or alternatively back at the Olathang Hotel.

In the afternoon you should have a bit of time for more sightseeing in the Paro Valley. You could visit the ancient temple of Kyichu Lakhang or walk up to the Paro Dzong, Paro's historic monastery/fortress. Sitting above the Dzong and housed in the old watchtower to the dzong is the national museum. The museum holds a fantastic collection of Bhutanese national treasures including the King's famous 'dragon hat', a wonderful collection of Bhutanese stamps, highly decorated thangkas (painted religious hangings), statues and weaponry. The museum was damaged in the earthquake of 2011, and while restoration is ongoing, some of its treasures will be displayed in a building nearby.

If you feel like a bit more walking you could walk back to your hotel from here.

Overnight: Hotel Olathang Or Similar, Paro

Day 5 - Fly to Bumthang, 2,800m/9,186ft - 20-25 minutes. Bumthang Valley walk.

You will transfer to Paro airport for the domestic flight to Bumthang in central Bhutan. On arrival you will be met and transferred to your hotel.

The Bumthang region is considered to be the religious heartland of the Bhutanese nation and is home to some of its oldest Buddhist temples and monasteries. It is also a centre for culture and the arts, especially for weaving. Weaving is an integral part of Bhutanese society and traditionally every Bhutanese home is equipped with a loom for weaving with most young girls being proficient in the craft before they reach the age of twenty. Bumthang encompasses four major valleys. Jakar town where you will stay for two nights is in the main valley called Chokhor. The other valleys that make up Bumthang are the Ura Valley which is to the east, Tang valley, slightly more off the beaten track and the Chumey Valley located back towards the west.

Depending on flight timings you should have time this afternoon to explore the Bumthang valley from your hotel in Jakar town. You can make an almost entirely level walk taking in some of the principle sights of the valley. From the hotel you walk to Jambay Lhakhang, one of the country's oldest temples, built in the mid-7th century. One interesting feature to look for here is the set of three steps in the main temple. The first step, now hidden below floor level, is said to represent the time of the past or 'historical' Buddha. The second, very well worn, step represents the present Buddha, whilst the third step above, is said to represent the age of the future Buddha. The point at which the second step is worn down to ground level is held to be the time when the world as we currently know it will end.

From Jambay you take a farm track along the valley floor and walk for 30 minutes to reach Kurjey Lhakhang, a series of three large temples. The oldest of the temples here houses a rock indented with the body shape of Guru Rinpoche, whilst the most recent dates back just 25 years and was built by the Queen Mother - Ashi Kesang Wangchuck. Descending from the temples you cross a suspension bridge and walk downstream for 45 minutes to Tamshing Lhakhang, the most important Nyingma gompa in the Kingdom, established in 1501 by Pemalingpa, a famous Buddhist saint and teacher more popularly known as the 'Treasure Hunter'. Inside you can see a suit of chain-mail armour, which Buddhists believe will bring good fortune if put on and then while being worn, walked around the inner temple three times.

After your visit here your transport will meet you outside the gompa to return you to your hotel. You could stop to have a look at Jakar township on the way back and might also have time to visit the picturesque Jakar Dzong, the 'Castle of the White Bird', so called because a white bird was supposed to have indicated the most auspicious place to build.

Overnight: Ugyenling Hotel Or Similar, Jakar

Day 6 - Temples walk. Visit Chumey Valley and short ridge walk.

If you did not have time yesterday there will be the opportunity this morning to explore the temples in the valley near Jakar township.

Later you will visit the Chumey Valley and have a short warm up walk. You drive to Chumey and visit Nyimalung Monastery, founded in 1938, and home to over 100 monks. You can also visit Prakhar Monastery, a quaint village temple as well as Zugney, a famous centre for weaving. You then drive up to the cluster of temples at Tharpaling, a sacred spot and place of meditation, where several picturesque monasteries dot the hillside above the Chumey Valley with views over Domkhar (Chumey) and Domkhar Summer Palace. From here you walk along an old trail back down towards Chumey. The path starts out beneath craggy cliffs, from where it climbs fairly gently up to the ridge top to reach the Shutre Sae Pass at 3,700m/12,139ft where there is a glass case containing a statue of the founder of Tharpaling. From here the views are phenomenal - looking south you can see over the Chumey/Domkhar Valley with the Black Mountains in the distance. The other way you get fabulous and unexpected views over Jakar town with the airport runway and the dzong clearly seen far below. Beyond and further north, you can see towards the high mountains - on a clear day perhaps even as far as Mount Gangkar Punsum. You descend from the pass in beautiful forest, nearly all downhill. On the higher reaches, you pass through pine, fir and rhododendron forest. Eventually you reach the road again at a huge area of prayer flags where you meet your transport and drive back to your hotel in Jakar.

Overnight: Ugyenling Hotel Or Similar, Jakar

Day 7 - Trek to Ngang Lhakhang 'Swan Temple', 2,817m/9,242ft - 3 hours.

Today you will start your trek with the walk to Ngang Lhakhang, also known as Swan Lhakhang. First you drive the short distance to arrive at a long mani wall in Tangbi. You descend to cross the river by a suspension bridge and then have a pleasant walk of about 3 hours, up the river valley through forest and meadows to reach Ngang Lhakhang, also known as 'Swan Temple'. This temple has an illustrious history. Guru Rimpoche is said to have visited here and the present temple, built in the 15th century is said to be named after swans supposedly seen on a nearby lake by the temple's founder, a Tibetan lama named Namkha Samdrup.

Overnight: Camp

Day 8 - Trek over Phephe la, 3,465m/11,368ft to camp below Ugyen Choling, 2,805m/9,200ft - 6 hours.

Listen out for barking-deer early this the morning. Your route today is largely through cool pine forest, climbing steadily through bamboo, fern and then Spanish-moss draped rhododendron, crossing small streams by stepping stones and crossing tree trunks. It is a 2½-3 hours walk to the pass, 3,465m/11,368ft, which is marked by prayer-flags - look out for Musk deer on the open hillside opposite as this is a favourite grazing spot for them.

Half an hour down from the pass you pass through a khonying (doorway) chorten and then descend through a series of summer grazing pastures used by villagers from Tendigang. There are two possible routes from here. One descends directly through the trees and will bring you to Ugyen Choling in 3-4 hours. The alternative route follows the high path across open hillside towards a small Lhakhang and village in the distance. There are lovely views down over the Tang valley, and the compact village of Tendigang is interesting to visit before continuing down a track to re-join the main trail.

The last section of today's trek takes you along the open valley bottom, through the attractive villages of Tahung and Kherab, before reaching camp set below Ogyen Choling Palace which overlooks the picturesque Tang valley.

Overnight: Camp

Day 9 - Trek to Phokpe, 2,787m/12,425ft - 6-7 hours.

Ogyen Choling is famous for its important, ancient, nobleman's palace and after breakfast it is a 45 minute walk uphill to visit the palace. It is well worth taking a break here and looking round the museum. The known history of Ogyen Choling Palace dates back to the 14th Century and a visit from the great Tibetan master of Buddhism, Longchen Rabjam, who meditated in a cave above the village. The palace itself is believed to have been built in the 16th century, although all except a single building was destroyed in the 1897 earthquake. The current complex is a reconstruction of the original, rebuilt and extended at the turn of the 20th century. In the year 2000 the heirs of Ogyen Choling established a trust fund devoted to the preservation and maintenance of the palace as a religious and cultural centre. The palace museum is one of most interesting in Bhutan and offers a fascinating insight into the history of the Lama Chorjes (religious nobility) of Bhutan. It houses old photographs, a host of traditional household items as well as dance costumes and printing equipment. If you are lucky you might meet the owner of the palace, Kunzang Choden, who is the author of 'Tales of the Yeti'.

You leave Ogyen Choling, on the often muddy path through the centre of the village and climb gently through open meadows, with nice views back over the palace. After an hour the trail leads into the pine forest where you walk uphill on narrow paths with a dense canopy of bamboo over your head. Eventually the forest gives way to a series of dwarf-bamboo fringed meadows, and you traverse the ridge, while occasional views down the valley can be glimpsed through the trees. Look out here for Himalayan Monal, a member of the pheasant family - the male is a brilliant blue.

You will camp in the upper reaches of a large meadow. Across the ridge you can see the remote Phokpe Lhakhang. There is sometimes a herd of yaks in this meadow. A wooden hut was built at the campsite some years ago at the top of the meadow. the evening meal may be cooked here.

Overnight: Camp

Day 10 - Cross the Rodang La, 4,129m/13,545ft, and trek to Pimi, 3,036m/9,960ft - 7-8 hours.

Today you will cross the Rodang La. The Rodang La has a significant place in Bhutanese folklore because of its importance in successfully navigating this vital trade route across Bhutan. There is a local saying which says of the steepness of the trail, that 'the Rodang La is fair in making us all equal. The master and the servants have to dismount from their horses and walk'.

Your trail leads out from the top corner of the meadow and climbs gently through tall pines and rhododendron, much of it covered in fabulous hanging Spanish moss. There may be fallen trees here, as this stretch of path is not often used. The large traditional knives (patang) which your trekking crew carry may come in handy to make the path passable for the horses. These woods are alive with birdlife - home to the distinctive Rufous-necked Hornbill, and Large-billed crows which like to follow travellers through the woods - especially when you stop for lunch! The trees finally give way to bush-rhododendron, and you climb on a rough stone stairway to the first pass, which is above the tree-line. A small stone chorten and prayer-flags mark the pass which is around 2-3 hours walk from Phokpe. There are good views of the eastern Himalaya, including Gangkar Punsum, in fine weather. The rocky path descends gently through meadow and rhododendron.

In this area be sure to look out for unusual footprints, not just for the elusive migoi (yeti) who has been traditionally sighted in meadows near the pass, but also for big cat pug marks, which were sighted on our reconnaissance trek. In 2018 we found an area with large animal faeces which were of a large predator. An hour on from the first pass a short climb brings you to a narrow gap in the rock face with steep cliffs on both sides and dramatic views. This is the start of a sensational descent.

Be careful on the descent, as the stone stairway, which descends steeply for several hours, is moss-covered in places and can be slippery. The path then finally levels out, bringing respite for tired legs, continuing along a tree-lined path until you arrive at Pimi, an open meadow with an old ruined guesthouse.

Overnight: Camp

Day 11 - Trek to Khaine Lhakhang, 2,035m/6,675ft - 6 hours.

From Pemi you continue to descend steeply along a forgotten footpath through dense rhododendron forest, the huge leaves either crunching or squelching underfoot - depending on conditions! After a couple of hours you emerge into a small meadow which gives you your first views of Khaine Lhakhang along the valley and Ungaar village, still a long way below on the valley floor. There are simple stilted herder shelters in the meadows here. You continue your descent through slightly more open terrain until you finally arrive at the suspension bridge, 1,770m/5,806ft, over the Noyurgang Chu and cross to enter the delightful village of Ungaar. The descent to the bridge from Pimi is some 4,150ft and takes around 4 hours.

Leaving Ungaar you cross a second bridge where you will meet your vehicle and make the short drive to Khaine Lhakhang. You pass several small chortens and mani-walls on the outskirts of other settlements before arriving into the village. Khaine Lhakhang itself is beyond the first section of the village and commands pleasant views. Known as the 'sleeping-dog' temple, this simple lhakhang is believed to be one of the 108 geometric temples constructed by King Songtsen Gampo, 7th century founder of the Tibetan empire.

Ara Be very wary of local hospitality in this valley. The villagers are extremely hospitable and the traditional welcome for any visitors is a minimum of two large bowls of their home-brewed ara (a cloudy spirit distilled from rice, wheat or corn.) The local speciality is to serve the ara warm with shredded fried-egg in the bottom of the bowl. Traditionally you would be expected to drink a further two bowls on departure - something you may find challenging at eight in the morning - but which certainly sends you on your way with a spring in your step! As the people of this valley speak an entirely different dialect, any basic Dzongka you may have learnt will not help you to decline their copious ara refills.

Overnight: Camp

Day 12 - Drive to Tangmachu and visit giant statue. Drive to Lhuentse and visit dzong. Visit Khoma weaving village. Drive to Minje, 1,985m/6,505ft.

After breakfast you will drive to Tangmachu. Nowadays the village of Tangmachu is famous for its huge copper statue of Guru Rimpoche, built on the ridge top to keep watch over the village and the surrounding countryside. There are great all round views from the ridge top and you may be able to see the terraced fields of Minje, on the opposite side of the valley, where you will be camping tonight.

The 173ft tall statue was built by the Druk Odiyana Foundation, a non-profit organisation founded by the Venerable Khengo Karpo Rinpoche in 2004. Its purpose is to bring peace and prosperity to the world and benefit all sentient beings. No doubt you will be surprised at how remote this is.

You then drive all the way down into the valley and turn left to continue to the town of Lhuentse. Lhuentse Dzong, situated above the town on a rocky hilltop known as Linglingthang, is quite impressive and is well worth a visit. It was damaged in the earthquake of 2011 but has been restored. The dzong was formerly the ancestral home of the kings of Bhutan, with its origins dating back to the seventeenth century when a monastery was founded on the site by Kunga Wangpo. Today it is the administrative and religious centre for the Lhuentse District. The township below the dzong is known as Gangzur and is a pleasant place to explore and to perhaps enjoy a cold soft drink or a beer after your time on trek.

Later you will drive up to visit Khoma village. Khoma is known throughout the country for its production of Kishuthara, an intricately patterned silk textile. The women of Khoma work in makeshift textile cottages, weaving the delicate designs and patterns. They will be happy to show you their elaborate weaving, and although you may buy textiles here there is no hard sell. Be warned that prices are not cheap, although the high prices reflect the immense amount of work and the value that the Bhutanese give to such fine weaving.

Finally you will drive the 1,000 metres up to Minje Village. There are two possible campsites in Minje - one on some terraced fields close to the village school, the other above the main village in an open meadow alongside the Darchu Pang Lhakhang. This area is renowned for its fragrant herbs, particularly lemon-grass - try crushing a small piece between your fingers to release the fragrance.

Overnight: Camp

Day 13 - Trek to Pemi, 3,150m/10,335ft - 4-5 hours.

If you have camped near the school the previous night your day will probably start with the school bell and some very curious small faces peering down on your campsite. If your guide can obtain permission from the school's head teacher It is fascinating to witness the outdoor morning assembly.

From the school campsite it is a 20-minute climb to the lhakhang (also a possible campsite). This is a small and recently built lhakhang. The guardian will be happy to show you around the building and the small well-tended garden with its lovely geraniums. Leaving the lhakhang behind you climb steadily, on what can be muddy paths, through oak and rhododendron forest, until you reach an open meadow, Pawachen, at 3,100m/10,171ft, a meadow used by villages for summer grazing. The trail continues through virgin forest and light bamboo. Continue through a series of meadows containing flag-poles and summer cow-herder shelters until you reach your campsite at Pemi, 3,150m/10,335ft. Although there are campsites further along the trail, Pemi is the last site with sufficient water supplies for larger groups.

Overnight: Camp

Day 14 - Cross the Dong La, 3,980m/13,056ft. Trek to Taupang, 2,508m/8,226ft - 8-9 hours.

This day is long and involves a descent of approximately 1,702m/4,500ft, but is quite an adventure! You continue steadily upward as the trail winds along the ridge, initially through more summer grazing pastures then plunging back into the trees - hemlock, spruce, cypress and rhododendron. From around 3,500m/11,483ft you follow a twisting spiral pathway strewn with mossy boulders beneath swathes of Spanish Moss. In places there are some steep drops to your right and on a clear day you should be rewarded with good views as you continue to climb.

After around three hours you reach an open ridge-top with some old scattered prayer-flags. Stretching below is a sloping grassy meadow - occasionally used as a campsite for very small groups. Be aware that you may encounter green leeches here. They are harmless and can generally be avoided through applying a good Deet-based insect repellent.

A series of prayer-flags along the ridge mark the nine rocky crests (sisters) of the Dong-La, the highest of which is around 4,000m/13,124ft and decorated with a number of tall flag-poles. Your trekking crew will most likely stop here to add their own prayer-flags. Your gradual descent takes you past the ruins of an old house, a group of prayer-flags which mark the border of Lhuntse and Yashe Districts and across an exciting wooden bridge before arriving at Taupang. The meadow here can have high grass which your crew will need to cut or flatten to make your camp for the night.

Overnight: Camp

Day 15 - End trek at suspension bridge, 1,895m/6,216ft - 6-7 hours. Drive to Tashi Yangtse, 1,820m/5,546ft - 40 minutes drive.

You leave the campsite and cross another wooden bridge, passing back into dense jungle. The trail descends slowly across stepping-stones, log walk-ways and notched log-bridges. This section can be muddy and slippery - a good day to wear your gaiters! There is a wealth of flora and fauna in the forest - look out for Fire-tailed Sunbirds, Verditer Flycatchers and the Satyr Tragopan amongst the giant ferns and bamboo. After 2½-3 hours you emerge from the trees into the welcome hamlet of Shakshing, 2,385m/7,825ft. The first little farm you come to has an ingenious way of keeping wild animals out of its fields - it has a stuffed fake tiger on a covered wooden platform in full view of the fields below!! From the chorten here it is another couple of hours through forest and inhabited clearings to the end of the trail where, subject to jeep-track conditions, your transport will be waiting to drive you to Tashi Yangste. Just 15 minutes down the track you see the old Tashi Yangtse Dzong perched on a hilltop ahead, and as you cross the river below the dzong by a modern road bridge you will see over to your right a very lovely ancient traditional covered bridge. The town of Tashi Yangste occupies seemingly the only bits of level ground in endless mountainous forest-covered Himalayan foothills.

Your accommodation in Tashi Yangtse is in the only guesthouse in town, which was renovated in 2017 and is centrally located. The afternoon is yours to enjoy a shower, perhaps a beer or two and to relax after your trek.

Overnight: Hotel Karmaling Or Similar, Tashi Yangtse

Day 16 - Explore Tashi Yangste. Visit Chorten Kora and Black-necked crane reserve at Bumdeling.

Today you have a day to explore Tashi Yangste and its surroundings.The town of Tashi Yangste sprawls over an open valley with the modern dzong set on the hillside at the top of town above the archery ground. This dzong is used purely for administrative purposes and also houses the judiciary court.

A short walk through the town centre with its selection of stores, bars and pool halls takes you down to the huge Chorten Kora set by the river. This is a large, white stupa built in about 1740 and one of the great cultural attractions of eastern Bhutan. It is built in the same style as the great stupa at Boudhanath in Nepal, but it's not really very like Boudhanath. The reason is said to be that a lama who visited Boudhanath and wanted to build a copy in Bhutan made a model of the stupa by carving a radish with the outline, but the radish unfortunately shrank and distorted before he got it back home! It is believed that once Chorten Kora was finally built and blessed, the demon which had previously terrorised the Tashi Yangtse valley was subdued and banished. The area surrounding Tashi Yangtse still has close contacts with the neighbouring Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh, such that one day of Chorten Kora's Important festival in April is set aside exclusively for people making the pilgrimage here from Arunachal Pradesh. Above the town is the Arts and Crafts Institute of Zorig Chusum where training is given in various skills such as woodcarving and weaving. Here you may see the student craftsmen at work and perhaps buy some of their wares. There is also a very interesting wildlife centre/museum, and a deer enclosure.

Later you may visit the reserve for Black-necked cranes located at Bumdeling along the valley from Tashi Yangtse - the cranes normally migrate to Bhutan from Tibet between November and early March so they may have already started arriving. It is a very pleasant valley to walk in for a little way along.

Overnight: Hotel Karmaling Or Similar, Tashi Yangtse

Day 17 - Drive to Tashigang, 1,140m /3,739ft, with visit to Gom Kora en route - 4-4½ hours.

Today you drive down the valley to Tashigang. On the way you visit the charming little temple of Gom Kora, one of the quirkiest places in Bhutan! As well as viewing the pretty little temple which has some very lovely faded old frescoes inside, you may go around behind the temple to undertake a number of challenges - make a sacred circuit, attempt to climb a large rock up the 'stairway to paradise', drink the sacred water which flows down the rock or squeeze into a tiny holy cave where Guru Rimpoche is said to have subdued a demon in the shape of a ferocious serpent which came down the valley from Tibet. You may also test your sin by carrying a very large boulder three times round the central stone. If you find the rock heavy then you have a lot of sin!

You then drive further down the valley and will spot Tashigang's spectacular dzong ahead, set high above the valley, before you cross the river and climb up to the town itself. Tashigang is an attractive town, the largest in eastern Bhutan, with pretty painted houses, lots of bright bougainvillea and geraniums, and bustling shops and cafes. The centre of Tashigang is clustered round a small central plaza with a large prayer wheel, a bank, a few shops and bars but not much else. There is a small souvenir shop here which is not very inspiring! Below the plaza is the dzong, overlooking the valley. This dzong, one of the most strategically important in the country, was built in the 17th Century to guard against Tibetan invaders. The afternoon is yours to explore the town, do a spot of handicraft shopping or just to relax at one of the simple street-side cafes.

Overnight: Druk Deothjung Lodge Or Similar, Tashigang

Day 18 - Drive to Samdrup Jongkhar - 181km, 6-7 hours.

Remember to keep your passport on you today as you may need to show it as you enter Samdrup Jongkhar.

First, leaving Tashigang, you pass through Sherubtse and the campus of the country's premier University College before you climb to the Yongphula Pass, 2,190m/7,185ft. About 2-3 hours from Tashigang you reach Khaling, where one of the most famous weaving centres in Bhutan is located, providing cloth for the royal family. If the centre is open you may stop for a short visit. It is a further 4-5 hours drive from here to Samdrup Jongkhar. There are wonderful views of forested hills and valleys rolling away to the foothills and the Indian plains of Assam State. You can often see Langur monkeys, kingfishers, eagles and other brightly coloured birds along the roadside. The Indian-like border town of Sandrup Jongkhar is literally at the very foot of the Bhutanese foothills and is quite subtropical.

Overnight: Hotel Tashi Gasel Or Hotel Monjong Lodge Or Similar, Samdrup Jongkhar

Day 19 - Cross border into India and drive to Gauhati - 116km, 3 hours. Fly to Delhi - 2¼ hours.

After breakfast you will drive across the border into India and pick up your Indian transport to drive you to Gauhati. You will immediately be aware of the extreme contrast between these two Himalayan neighbours and will soon find yourself missing the peace and serenity of Bhutan! You drive across the flat plains of Assam through tea plantations, cross the mighty Brahmaputra River, and arrive at Gauhati, the largest city in this region. From Gauhati you fly to Delhi where you will be met and transferred to your hotel near the airport.

Overnight: Lemon Tree Premier Hotel, Delhi Airport

Day 20 - Fly Delhi to London.

After breakfast you will be transferred to the airport to fly home.